Day 159 - Bandar Abbas

Well my night in Darab was ok, but that is about as far as it goes. It was a posh hotel, but there service was terrible. To be honest it felt a bit strange being there. It was at the end of a long drive and the whole experience seemed to be a far cry from what Iran is really like and to that end the following 2 night, and the previous 2, were much more to my liking, but very basic.

The ride from Darab was straight forward enough. I expected a quickish ride so had a lie in as long as possible but I was still up at 7:15. The only tough bit of the ride came almost at the end. The road had been going gently up for a while then started to climb steeply up to a pass, but the descent was even better and longer, through the mountains and through three short tunnels, two of which were linked by a bridge over the valley. I dropped down into the valley below and arrived at Furk, probably the only likely place to spend the night. There was a garage and a restaurant close together so I stopped at the restaurant and looked for a place to camp. There was nowhere suitable so I carried on through the village but returned as there was nothing better. I located one small piece of land large enough to put a tent on, that wasnt either rocky or had plants growing on it. I went to get permission to camp there but they wouldnt have it but said I could sleep in the outside tea area. That was good enough for me but they soon said I could sleep in a large glass fronted room that wasnt used. Within a couple of minutes they brought me a carpet to sleep on and I made myself at home. Later as I had dinner one of the workers came and sat at the end of the table and just stared at me. I dont mind people looking at me but staring is not comfortable so I stared him in the eyes back and it was quite a while before he got the message and looked else where, but he stared again as soon as I looked away and the process was repeated a number of times. Later the chef brought a book over and showed me an advert for the place. As I read the book the manager came a read over my shoulder, turning the pages when he was ready. When we got to the advert for his place I pointed it out but he swore blind it wasnt, took the book off me and looked for the advert which he couldnt find. He called the chef who found it for him, the one I had just shown him, then he passed it back to me as pleased as punch with himself. The night in glass room was really hot and I just had the silk sleeping bag liner over me and I still sweated away.

The following morning I was up before everybody else so helped myself to breakfast. I also asked for some bread for lunch and then I was off. The road continued its downward trend and I dipped below 1000m for the first time since I left the Black Sea coast almost 2 months ago. Down on the plain below I saw the biggest roadkill I have ever seen, I even stopped to take a photo of it. A fully grown camel was on it side with no sign of blood. Hitting that wouldnt do your car any good! The road had been quiet for the last couple of days but once I reached the main road and turned south to Bandar Abbas things changed dramatically. It was narrow with lots of trucks that didnt particularly want to slow down for a mear cyclist, so some ran far too close for comfort. After 110k the road climb steeply for about 10km, I could see it way above me with apparently nowhere to go, so I guessed right and it went through a tunnel. It was terrible, narrow, dark, very hot and very fumey. As the trucks passed the heat from the exhausts was really hot on my legs. I had no idea how long the tunnel was and worked out what I would do if I was overcome with fumes, but thankfully it was only 800m long and I was mighty glad to be out in fresh air again. I was also at the top of the pass and heading downhill fast. It would soon be time to find a camp site and as usual during the morning I could have camped almost anywhere as the ground had been flat and soft, but now I was in a steep valley and there was nothing but rocks. Way ahead I could see palm trees and that usually means a village and soon I arrived at Qotb Abad where I saw a policeman getting into his car at the police station, so I asked him if there was anywhere I could camp. He suggested the mosque and I lad on a bike took me there. It was ideal with a large courtyard at the back with running water and a loo, so I made myself at home and got a brew going. For the next hour or so I had continual visits from the boys of the village as word obviously spread that there was a strange cyclist staying at the mosque. The the mosque opened up for evening prayers and I was visited by the adults as they left, then I was left on my own. It was a lovely warm evening so I didnt bother putting up the tent and slept under the stars, feeling very happy, safe and content. It was blissful. Allah was looking after me.

Today I was up at about 5:45 as it was well light and I was on the road by about 7:15 having had breakfast and plenty of coffee. The road was terrible for the first 30k, too much traffic, mainly trucks, and again they didnt want to slow down, so it was far from enjoyable. But the end of the day was at sea level so at times it was fast and furious and further on there was a new dual carriageway with a great surface and the pace was quick, though it seemed to take an age to get from the outskirts to the centre. Once there I found an internet cafe, checked my mails and found that Judith and Andre were staying with a family and had given me the address, near the bus station, which wasnt on my map. 3 guys on a motor cycle started to show me the way but disappeared down an alleyway very quickly as a police car pulled up alongside me. The police then put me on the right road and went their separate way and every kilometre or so I would stopped and asked the way, having little confidence that I would ever find the place. Then another 2 on a motorcycle offered to show me but they wanted me to go faster and faster, but as they were the first ones that seemed to know exactly where is was I didnt want to lose them. Sure enough they got me there, 10km from the internet cafe, and I met up with J & A and their hosts, a man, his aunt, grandmother and a friend, all very confusing as first, but lovely people and very welcoming and a meal was soon served up after I had a nice warm shower.

So tomorrow we are off to U.A.E. and Dubai, assuming I can get a ticket as J & A already have theirs. So what will I miss about Iran? Well I will miss the people and their hospitality. I said after my 1999 visit that they are the most welcoming and friendly people of all the places I have visited and this trip has strongly confirmed that, they are wonderful and put politics aside and make everybody welcome in their homes. I will also miss the carrot jam, but I wont miss the jubs, the big wide, deep and dangerous water channels at the side of every road on towns. What I am looking forward to? The only things really are a change of scenery and the excitement of new experiences in new places that I know very little about.

We will be in Dubai for a few days as we want to sort out our Indian visas, then I would like to see a little of U.A.E. before going into Oman and trying to get a boat somewhere from Muscat, the capital. Time will tell if all that happens.

Day 156 - Darab

Well I have said my farewells to Andre and Judith again, so I am alone once more.

Leaving Shiraz was a breeze, flat and fast, but nothing much to see other that a salt lake. The road hugged the shore for about 30km and by the end of it the novelty had worn off. I guess at times it is full of water as there were boats at various points along the shore, but little sign of water when I was there. I arrived at Sarvestan, my intended destination, at about 14:30 and it seemed way to early to stop, but I did my best to. There were no hotels and as it was a bigish town no suitable places to camp so I went to the far end of town. There was a pretol station and a garage but still nowhere suitable to camp the only good place being a cemetry where I would have loved to have camped but there were 3 men working there with a bulldozer so I decided better of it. By now the wind had got up making it was hard work, but I continued to the next village where I found a really nice little spot by the a stream. Once I had set up the tent the goat herds came past returning for the night to the village and the herdsman stopped for a chat. A lad came over and said I would be cold and invited me back to eat and spend the night in his house, but it was already dark so I decided to stay put. It was a wonderful moonlit evening and a slept really well.

The following day was a short one to Fasa where I expected to find a hotel. Sure enough I did but it was a tourist hotel, with no tourists and very expensive. They gave me directions to the Islami Hotel but when I got there I couldnt see it. On route I was going around a roundabout when a car cut across the front of me, hit another car and instantly stopped leaving me with nowhere to go and I hit it on the side. What seemed like an age later a motorcycle also hit it in the side. The was no damage on my part, even less than when I was hit by a car in Shiraz whilst I was on foot. That left me with a sore wrist for a couple of hours. I seem to be riding my luck at the moment, I feel like a cat with nine lives. I asked around and a motorcyclist offered to lead me there, but we seemed to be heading out of town so I thanked him and returned. Another motorcyclist made the same offer and took me back to the tourist hotel and insisted it was the Islami despite the wrong name on the outside. This scenario continued for over an hour by which time my patience was waring thin. This time I asked a shop keeper and he pointed to it, but I still had time to get a puncture. My half day and relaxed afternoon were fast disappearing. At last I found the hotel but there was nothing in English to suggest it was a hotel and it didnt look like one. I had been there about 3 times and even those I had asked when right outside didnt know about it. Once inside I still had the puncture and the owner insisted on wheeling the bike, but I just wanted to be left alone to do my own thing. Before long the puncture was fixed and after a hot shower on loose floor tiles that squelched when walked on I felt much better. The hotel was a dive, the worst I have stayed in and by far the cheapest as I refused to pay his asking price. Before long I was brought a pot of tea soon followed by a box of dates and wafer biscuits. I was invited into the owners house which was next door and introduced to his wife. I was somewhat surprised that she didnt have a scarf on and there was cleavage on view, very un-Iranian. She put a scarf on and brought more tea and a bowl of fruit. She asked if I was angry and I explained that I had been a bit wound up, but over the evening she kept asking if I was angry, then I realised that she was asking if I was hungry. I was invited by them to a wedding party that evening but I told them I had nothing suitable to wear but Ardalan offered me his clothes but I still turned down the offer saying I was too fat. At 6pm some of the family returned and I was introduced to them all and photos were taken and little movies shot, I must be better looking than I thought! They wouldnt let me go out on my own as in their opinion it was too dangerous, so I was taken by taxi to and from the internet cafe, all paid for by them and given dinner on my return. By the end of the evening I felt terrible that I had negotiated such a low price for the room.

This morning was more of the same. I had breakfast with Ardalan and his wife Maryem, whilst their little daughter still slept. When I went to leave they wanted to show me around Maryem`s mothers house and I was given apples, and prayer beads. I took a couple of photos before I left but their daughter Melica did not want to be photographed, so gave a doll to be in the picture instead. Ardalan showed me the route out as I followed him on his motorcycle. When we said our goodbyes Ardalan was in floods of tears, but I didnt find it embarassing and gave him a hug. He insisted on giving me his sunglasses as I left so I gave him mine in return and he was delighted. They are a wonderful family and once again the hospitality is just fantastic, they just want to give so much.

Today has been an easy ride to Darab, but it was deja vu all over again as I found a tourist hotel in the same chain as yesterdays and struggled to find anything else and once again motorcyclists led me on a merry dance. One hotel I did find was terrible and made yesterdays look really good. It was full of young men and I had to share a room and they all surrounded me. I felt I needed some space tonight so reluctantly went back to the tourist hotel. I have too much money left anyway and it cant be changed back so I thought I might as well use it rather than spend the night in a real dump.

Day 153 - Shiraz

The ride from Yazd to Shiraz has been some of the best scenery in Iran and came as a real surprise to us.

We said our farewell to Erik and Tjeerd in Yadz and who knows, we might meet up again in the future as our paths are likely to cross. The day out of Shiraz was reasonable, but after a few days rest and a nice hotel, none of us really wanted to be cycling. Added to that it was uphill all day and it was 2885 calories before we went downhill at all and that was only into the village of Ali Abad where we decided to stop the night. We bought some food for the night and asked if there was anywhere suitable to camp and we were taken around to the mosque. I loved the idea of spending a night ina mosque but sadly nobody could find a key. I went to look for somewhere to camp but when I had returned we had been offered a place for the night. It was in an empty house with the only things in the rooms being walnuts laid out to dry. We were up at 2250m so as the sun went down it became cold. We hadnt even unpacked before a proccession of gifts arrived. First we were given some bread, then a guy arrived with more bread and a third with yesterdays dry bread! Next they brought us a carpet, blankets and pillows and it was beginning to look pretty snug. Salad and cheese soon arrived and our hosts stayed whilst we ate so there was no need to cook despite them providing us with a portable gas stove.

At 7 there was a knock at the door and I leapt out of bed put, some trousers on but forgot the shirt in my rush. The old lady was at the door and didnt know what to say or where to look, so I made a quick exit...oops! Within 15 mins she was back with breakfast along with others carrying more food. The hospitality in Iran is wonderful and it is done without a second thought. As we set off we climbed through trees and it was hard to believe we were in Iran, but they soon disappeared revealing a bit more climbing to do before we reached the pass at 2555m, then followed a long descent, then it was gradually downhill for the rest of the day. The mountains gave way to desert as the vegetation rapidly thinned out leaving nothing but sand and stones. We arrived at Abarkuh where we decided to call it a day as there was a hotel here. It had `Tourist` in its name, never a good sign, but they obviously were not used to tourists or even any type of guest come to that. They wanted 320,000 for a single room to start with but we managed to get the price down to 110,000 but it took about 20 mins. It was a big hotel but not as big as my room number 4017 would suggest. We were the only people staying there and clearly it was too much effort for them. The restaurant was large though there was a distinct lack of food. We eventually went of `Spa Getti` as they wouldnt give us ricew with anything as it would apparently keep us awake all night.

Breakfast the following morning was just as bad. There was an early rush as all 3 guests arrived at breakfast at the same time. They only brought breakfast for one and looked totally blank when we tried to explain that there were 3 of us, but things were alot easier when Andre went into the kitchen and sorted it out. The day turned out to be another day of climbing. We chose a village on the map to stop at but we managed to pass through it without even noticing it. There was little ahead that we could reach during the last hour of light so we called in at a works unit to ask for water. We also asked if we could camp there and were told we could, but very soon after were told we couldnt. It was a bit confusing as it turned out that the reason we couldnt camp was because it would be too cold at night and they wanted us to stay as their guests in the accommodation block. The works unit was for a railway that is being built from Shiraz to Esfahan. We didnt need to be asked a second time and we were soon shown to a couple of rooms in a prefab building with showers and the heaters on, bliss. Tea arrived soon to be followed by dinner for 2...Andre and Judith. I was invited into the engineers block for dinner and even had a table to sit at with the 6 other men. Lots of questions were asked and when I told them how old I was some of them clapped. I didnt think I was that old! Later in the evening they said they had a DVD of The Queen. It turned out to be the film which thankfully they became bored with after about 15 minutes. I was invited to sleep in their block and the beds were as hard as a butchers slab but I slept remarkably well.

When I woke at 6:30 the other 3 beds were empty and I could here them having breakfast. By the time I got up the place was empty so I went back to the room where Judith and Andre were and waited outside. The cleaner from my block saw me and offered me breakfast and I went to the dining area where the remains of breakfast hadnt been cleared away. I helped myself to a tea and the cleaner gave me the remainder of the manky bread and a bowl of half eaten something, it looked remarkably like cat food, complete with used spoon...yum yum! When he left I made a quick exit and had breakfast with Judith and Andre. It was another short climb to the top of another pass at 2536m then it rolled along nicely but enough downhill to make progress good. We passed a petrol station that was a bit like one of our motorway service stations and it looked very well kept with cut grass on raised flower beds and there were also places to eat and 2 well stocked stores. We had wanted to go a bit further but it seemed too good to pass by so we got permission to camp and made ourselves at home, the raised beds making very good kitchen tops.

The night was cold and dropped to 4 degrees so the eggs for breakfast the following morning went down very well. The days riding was excellent and weaved through the mountains in a valley that had vegetables growing and at times was remarkably green. We bowled along at a very good speed and the kilometres passed unnoticed, the scenery was that good. We were heading for Persepolis but first called in at the Royal Tombs (photo). We stopped there about 30 minutes but it was too hot to hang around in the sun. It was just a short ride to Persepolis, one of the hightlights of Iran. They are very well preserved ruins and the stone reliefs are just amazing (other photos), although to Andre they were just old stones. I asked at the ticket office if there was anywhere to camp and was told very agressively there was nowhere here to camp, so I asked if there was anywhere nearby and he pointed to a grassed area right in front of the old stones. The contradiction confused me somewhat so I asked the same question in as many ways as I could think of and he always pointed to the grassed area, excellent. We were told we couldnt camp until the place shut at 17:00. When we went in a family layed a rug down and invited us to drink tea with them and they soon invited us back to stay at their house, but our marvelous campsite was too good to miss so we declined the offer.

We had packed camp by 8 the following morning and as entry to Persepolis was so cheap we went in for a second visit, but it wasnt long before tour buses were arriving. We left at about 9:30 for Shiraz and it turned out to be the only bad bit of the journey from Yazd as the road was busy and the fumes on the climbs gave me a headache. We arrived early in Shiraz and looked at about 5 hotels before settling for on which only had a name in Farsi but had a very friendly manager and good clean rooms.

After a lie in today we have done a bit of sightseeing and completed a few chores. I only have one day here as I need to get to Bandar Abbas in 6 days as the ferry to Dubai only goes once a week. J & A have decided to chill out a bit and take the bus there, so I have a few days on my own again. Judging by the map I think I have 2 night in hotels and 3 camping, spend one night in Bandar Abbas and take the ferry next Tuesday to Dubai.

I still forget that J & A`a English is not as good as mine and every now and then I say something and they look at each other and say `uh?`. Andres forgets some words so my mini water boiler has bem come as the `hot maker` and a towel is a `drying machine`.

Day 145 - Yazd

Is Ramadan over? I cant really tell the difference!

Well 5 of us set off from Esfahan together as we were joined by the Dutchmen Erik and Tjeerd. Heading out was straight forward, if a little boring. We were heading through desert so there is no shade anywhere so we stopped for lunch behind a little hill just to be a bit away from the road. A motorcyclists pulled up and asked us to lunch. He said he was from Toudeshk, the village we were heading for so we asked if he knew Mohammed Jalaly. He said he was his brother and that we would see him later on. Tjeerd volunteered to take Andre's trailer for the afternoon and not surprisingly Andre was only to pleased to let him have a go. What Tjeerd didn't realise is that it would be gently uphill all afternoon. Near Toudeshk another motorcylist pulled up and this time it was Mohammed and he guided us to his house which we would never have found on our own. Another car pulled up for a chat and the driver turned out to be another brother. How big is this family? The village was contructed from mud and straw walls and Mohammed's house was a large one (photo). Once we arrived we left our bikes in the courtyard and were invited in to the lounge which had a fire going and we were immediately made very welcome. I struggled a bit to work out who was who as his father and brothers were there, some friends, women and a whole host of children, mainly girls. Mohammed's sister in law slaved away in the kitchen all evening and produced a tasty meal for us and an endless supply of tea and all the men sat and ate together. I never did see the women eat. The lounge had no seats in but there were cushions all around the walls which made it easy to move around and chat to somebody else It made for a great evening. On one side of the lounge was a carpet that was being made and we were given a demonstation of the process. Hours of work had gone into it and everybody knew what to do, even the smallest of the girls. At about 22:00 we were asked if we wanted a shower. Confusion followed due to communication problems as Mohammed said we would all go together, but it turned out that the house had no bathroom, so the communal village shower was used. Once back we were given 2 rooms, whilst the rest of the family slept in the lounge. As with all the other houses we have been in, nobody sleeps on beds, just blankets on the floor.

Thursday started as Wednesday had finished with wonderful hospitality from Mohammed and his family. Once the communal breakfast on the floor was finished we were taken for a guided tour of the village. Mohammed seems to know everybody so we were introduced to them all. To be honest it got a bit frustrating as we had a long way to go and the morning was fast disappearing. In the end I said we had to go but Mohammed still managed to provide us with 7 bottles of mineral water, a pile of bread and a Volvo baseball cap to replace my old manky red one. The hospitality was just fantastic. They have a great desire to host cyclists and motorcyclists that pass through the village and prove to people that Iran and Iranians are not what the press makes them out to be. They would accept nothing and said we would not be guests if they accepted anything from us. The others managed to find some things to give the children the previous evening, but sadly I was a let down. Once on the road it continued to climb. We reached the top at 2327m, then enjoyed the long gradual descent to Na'in, where the mosque we wanted to see was closed. We bought food for the evenings camping and set off through the desert. There was absolutely nothing about so we decided to camp at the first decent campground we could find. Some large building came into view and as we only had about an hours daylight left we went to investigate. It was an old caravanseri, behind which was a small area where vegetables were growing and in front was a sandy area. We were given permission to camp there then went to look inside the old fortified walls next to us. Inside were about 15 camels that were being kept for their meat. We cooked up dinner in the dark, well Andre did anyway, then had a really good evening sat there looking up at the fantastic display of stars. Due to the late start we only managed 80k which left us 140k to get to Yazd.

Friday was my birthday and thanks for all you comments to acknowledge it. Judith, Andre and Erik sang happy birthday to me then J and A gave me a present beautifully wrapped in an old Iran Today and black insulation tape. It was a baseball cap exactly the same colour and make as my old one, they must have searched for ages to find one the same so were somewhat disappointed to see that I was given a new one the previous day. Tjeerd arrived, then he and Erik sang happy birthday, or the equivalent in Dutch. I hate people singing to me so twice in one hour was bad news. They gave me a present too, a little air horn to go on the bike that is really effective. They had some spare to give to children so we all fixed them to our bikes and as people called out to us we returned with 5 airhorns going all at once. Needless to say the whole day we were like a bunch of kids but we had great fun. Thankfully the route was flat so we made good progress. Lunch was great as Tjeerd had bought some eggs that we had boiled, we had a brew of coffee along with a 7.5kg water melon that Erik had been carrying which went down really well in the heat of the day. We arrived at Yazd at about 17:30 just as it was getting dark. The first hotel we tried didn't appeal so we made our way to the Silk Road Hotel. This was much nicer, but full, even the dorms. They had space on the roof, part of which had a carpet and a nomad type covering, so all 5 of us slept there, which was great, even better than camping, but a long walk to the loo during the night. Once we had showered we ate at the hotel and had a 3 course meal, the main course being camel meat stew which tasted rather like beef. The Hotel was a home from home as there were a number of people we had met at the hostel in Esfahan.


The following day we were back to just 3 of us as Erik and Tjeerd were heading of for Shiraz by bus. They had ridden all the way here from the Netherlands but were opting to fly over Pakistan. It seems as though I am the only one that wants to cycle and no, I dont have to prove anything to anybody Nick, it's just want I want to do, thats all.

The last couple of days have been a mixture of chores and sightseeing, or seesiding as Judith called it once. She knew it was wrong but couldnt work out why. We will be here tomorrow too as Judith and Andre have taken there passports in for a visa extensions which they wont get back until tomorrow midday. Yadz has some good things to see (photo) but the old city is what it is famous for. It is the oldest habitated city in Iran and mainly mud brick built. There are wind towers everywhere, which are used for cooling water below ground as well as an ancient and efficient form of airconditioning. We were walking down a quiet but wide street when a taxi ploughed into the bak of a parked car pushing it into the drainage ditch beside the road. The driver just reversed and drove off which I suspect is not the done thing even in Iran. I made me think of the same thing happening as we cycle along as driving standard here are somewhat poor. We are continuing to sleep on the roof even though the Hotel is much emptier now. Last night we were filmed playing backgammon up there as there is some sort of documentary being made at the hotel.

So reluctantly I have made my decision and on Wednesday I will set off with Judith and Andre to Shiraz and from there we will go to Bandar Abbas and get a ferry across to Dubai (United Arab Emerites) where we hope to find a dow heading for Bombay (Mumbai). If as expected that fails we will cycle to Oman and try to do the same from there. If we succeed it will be great fun and a really good experience, but I am being a bit of a pessimist, so I dont think we will be able to, which will mean getting a flight to somewhere. The good thing about this routre is that I can speed more time with Judith and Andre as we all get on very well together. They look after me far too well, they must think I am an old man. Oh I am!

Whilst I have been in Iran I have been trying to find out as much information about Buluchestan as possible. Its an area the covers part of Afghanistan, Pakistan and Iran and has major problem with drug trafficing. I havent heard any good news from the area other than that you can get a police escort. That would mean about 400k in Iran and 600k in Pakistan through an area where there is very little habitation and therefore little food and water. The police escorts are switched at district borders and involves a lot of waiting around and according to drivers coming the other way is far from enjoyable. The crossing for me would be over a week and involve camping in the middle of nowhere. At best I assumed I would be robbed. Going by bus is also said to be very dangerous and I have heard reports that a Japanese motorist was kidnapped last Monday although I can find nothing on the internet to confirm it.

So the trip will be taking a very large diversion and as stated above could be really good. If I have to fly I will rethink things over again, but it is far too early to make plans yet as it is still about 3 weeks before we reach Dubai.

It will be another week before the next post as I expect it to take 5 days to reach Shiraz and there is little in between here and there and very unlikey to be an internet cafe. For those interested in the photos there as been a whole host of them uploaded.

Thanks again for all your comments and I hope the above puts you minds to rest. Its good to hear from you Gary. After riding The Dean 300 I had a feeling that you would end up riding Paris-Brest-Paris despite you saying it would be your only 300. You had that enthusiasm that suggest you would go on to complete much greater distances. Well done.

Day 139 - Esfahan

The holiday is over.

We have been here 6 days now and its strange, but when I stay in one place for a long time I always find it hard to think what I have done, what is there to write about. I think it because all the days seem to roll into one.

It been a relaxing 6 days, yet in a way tiring. Walking around a city seems hard work after the days on the bike and added to that it always seems hotter in the cities as there is no self generated breeze.

So what have we been doing? Thursday was a lazy day, late up and a very long breakfast that went on until midday, then a bit of sight seeing, followed by more social chat in the evening.

Friday was interesting. There was a large demonstation in Imam Square and being the 2nd largest square in the world that makes for a big demonstation. Andre and I couldnt resist it so went down to have a look as we knew what it was all about from the posters and banners we had seen. It was an anti American and Israeli protest and we were left in little doubt about that as the only part of a speach we could understand was `bad bad America, bad bad Israel, bad bad English`. Having said that we never felt under threat but the nearer we got to the front the more I felt that we were being stared at. Somebody stopped to ask us if we knew what it was about so we said no. As he tried to explain a large crowd of youngsters surrounded us and as we departed it became a bit of a problem until adults stopped them from following us. A teacher then latched on to us and explained that it occured on the last Friday of Ramadan from the last 30 years, so it didnt seem quite so bad, not a rally call for war, although there were young children wearing bandaners and military trousers, but other men were seen wearing New York baseball caps so a bit of a contradiction there.

Saturday we met up again with the teacher and he took us for a guided tour of the bazaar that was little more than a trip to all of his friends craft shops, but it was good to see tiles and bowls being painted by hand. There were also plenty of other craftsmen to look at but most were metal workers.

On Sunday Andre bet me a beer that other cyclists would turn up that day so I thought it was too good an opportunity to miss and I looked forward all day to my nice cold non alcoholic beer as neither of us had seen cyclists in weeks. Amazingly enough 2 Dutch cyclist turn up, Erik and Chet (that's not how you spell it but it sort of sounds similar) and having tasted the beer I was glad I lost the bet. So there are now five cyclists staying at the hostel, but we are all heading in the same direction so no news coming in from Pakistan and I guess it too late in the year now to expect that.

Yesterday was a bit of a wasted day, but chores had to be done. This one took the form of getting a visa extension and it took me ages to find the office as it has moved. Once I found the office it was constant frustration of queuing, going to the bank to pay in money, queuing again, then being sent to another office where my paperwork was taken and I was told to come back tomorrow. They wouldnt give me a receipt and with so many passports in the place I could see me losing it so I pestered them to give me a receipt and they finally agreed to do it whilst I wait. 3 hours later I had my extension and it is for a month. I only expected 2 weeks then a repeat performance else where, so now at least I dont have to suffer that again. In the evening we went down to see the old bridges which are floodlit and made for a nice gentle bike ride and a good de-stress from the passport office. We then had tea in a really posh hotel that has been converted from an old caravanseri, very relaxing.

Today has been catching up with more chores, a bit of bike maintenance, washing including hand washing, changing money, that sort of exciting thing. Later in the afternoon we went around the last few sights here, a couple of little palaces and a mosque (photo), all very good and made a good end to the stay in Esfahan.

Tomorrow we are off towards Yadz and all five of us are heading off together. I had a phone call the other night at the hostel, that came as a bit of a surprise, and we were invited to stay with a student who lives in a village about 95k along the route to Yadz. I think he may be a cyclist himself as he invites cyclists to stay with him and was only too happy to accommadate 5 of us.

Beyond Yadz we are all going in different directions and as yet I am undecided as to what I am going to do, but it looks as though my continuous cycle from home is about to come to an end as I am getting grief from certain people about my chosen route through Pakistan, but I will say more about that when I have finally made up my mind.

Day 134 - Esfahan

Having left the internet café in Qom Andre and I went back for a last look at the holy shrine, we walked in together being relaxed and not looking at the guards. Once inside we were questioned by somebody after about 10 minutes and taken to an office by the guards. They asked Andre our nationality and he said German, then he asked if we were muslims and I said yes. They looked at each other as if to say `what is the problem, what can we do`, so they let us go and followed our every step, thankfully we were on our way out anyway.

The following day we decided to take the expressway. Even though cycling is prohibited the police gave us the directions there when we asked them the way. Once again we were through the desert once we were away from Qom. A car stopped and a man came running after me and gave me a large bagful of pistaccio nuts. The day had a bit of climbing and we were not terribly fast so when we arrived at a petrol station we decided to camp there for the night. It wasn’t a good spot and we weren’t exactly welcomed so we moved on to Fin Gardens. There we found a spot to camp in the bushes, but it was far from ideal, though loos and a tap were nearby. Judith and Andre went to eat in a restaurant while I stayed at the tent and once they were back I went to eat. When I returned it looked as though they had invited all their friends around as there were two sets of people playing card right next to the tents, and I thought we had a nice little secluded spot! I also thought playing cards were illegal in Iran to stop gambling. They were all friendly though and there was no problem, in fact as I wrote my diary I didn’t even hear them leave.

Kashan to Natanz was a hard and slow day as there was plenty of climbing, a good headwind and even a few minutes of rain (photo). We had hoped to get a lot further so as to be able to reach Esfahan the following day, but in the end we had to leave the expressway and find a hotel in Natanz as we had passed nothing all day and we had no water or food and the light was fading quickly. Thankfully we found a large hotel and we were the only people staying there. We were passed by a Swede on a motorbike who stopped for a chat. He was heading for the same hostel on Esfahan and he is sat next to me chatting as I type.

Yesterday went well, but I was stopped twice by the police. The first time was just outside of the hotel. As I went to look for a shop that was open they stopped me because I was wearing shorts. They are baggy shorts that go down to the knee, but that was too short apparently. I told them I was on a bike but that didn’t impress them but they soon lost interest with the language barrier. All the useful shops were shut so we set off with just biscuits and crisps and the hope of passing another petrol station. The first 40k were hard and slow as we climbed up to 2460m, something that was unexpected and it made the chances of reaching Esfahan at 130k seem very unlikely. On the way up we were followed by police for about 2k and at a police station they eventually pulled us over. They told us we had to leave the expressway as there was no cycling, but I told them that the police had directed us down this way and no other police had stopped us, then they said how dangerous it was, but I said it was far safer as there was less traffic and far more room for the trucks to pass safely. Then they said we could continue. I was amazed. I couldn’t see the police in England letting you continue doing something illegal, but this is Iran. Once at the summit is was plain sailing and the next 30k were completed with effortless pedaling. We didn’t pass a garage so we took lunch of biscuits and crisps and also bananas and more pistaccio nuts that we had been given by passing motorists. Later on we also stopped to eat half a water melon we were given by a truck driver. We made it to Esfahan comfortably and in daylight and felt like celebrities on the way in as cars tooted, waved, greeted us, pulled up alongside for a chat and filmed us. Once at the hostel we soon chatted amongst other travelers, but in the courtyard it was noticeable how the cyclists were on one table, motorcyclists were on another table and backpackers another. We went out to eat but everything was shut and we discovered it was the anniversary of the death of the first Imam so nothing was likely to be open. Thankfully we found a fastfood place, but being the only place open it was packed.

Today is the first day of our `holiday`. After a late and long breakfast we went to the bank to collect some cash sent from Germany only to find that the two countries are no longer doing business. That somewhat ended Judith and Andres hopes of getting a flight out of Iran, so we sat and discussed the options. One option was to go overland the same route through Pakistan as I intend to take, but Judith was not impressed as it is not the safest of options. Then some Germans arrived who had come from Dubai by boat, so it looks as they will be making the reverse journey as they will not need the extra cash to do that.

I am still undecided as what is best to do. It seems unlikely that I will cycle the first 600k in Pakistan as it is lawless and a somewhat dangerous area at the moment. I have heard that even the police will not enter the area and turn a blind eye as to what goes on there. There is little habitation and water and cycling slow through the area will make it a little difficult to stay concealed. I have plenty of time to make a decision though.

Day 130 - Qom

You lucky lot! I have had a bonus day in Qom so I thought I might as well do another quick update.

Well getting out of Tehran was pretty easy. The 6:30 start meant there wasnt too much traffic. Once away from the centre I found a signpost to Qom, but it was heading for the expressway. There were major roads and flyovers everywhere so I just followed the signs. Every now and then I asked the way and also checked that the road was ok to cycle on and I was always told it was. Eventually I arrived at the expressway with toll booths, police and a sign saying no cyclists. I asked the police the way to Qom and they just pointed through the toll, so off I went and didnt even have to pay. It made getting out of the city easy and added to that there were no trucks allowed on the road so it was quieter and less poluted and I had the hard shoulder to myself. My intention then was to get off once away from Tehran, but when I saw the other road, single carriageway and full of lorries I stuck to the expressway all the way to Qom, 140k of it that went surprisingly quickly. The scenery was very different to before Tehran as it was now just desert, no villages, farming or people. The road passed very close to a large salt lake and that was just about the only highlight. The driving standards were much better on the expressway and I only saw 2 cars reversing on it. There were no end of police and speed checks and to start with I expected to be stopped but they just waved to me. Once in Qom I easily found the hotels I had arranged to meet Andre and Judith at, but finding them was more of a problem. I arrived at 13:30 and by 16:00 they still hadnt turned up, so I went off to visit the holy shrine. Its a massive place and really impressive (photo) with lots of different areas for prayer, all very different from each other and fanastically decorated, the best for me being the blue tiles. Qom is very conservative, probably due to the shrine, and every female is covered from head to foot in black. There was still no sign of A & J so I sent them an email setting a meeting place for the morning and went off for dinner.

This morning I packed and went to the end of the alley where there are about 5 hotel in 50 metres. Without going into any I asked on the street if they had seen 2 German cyclists and I was told the hotel and the room number, news travels fast here! So at last I found them, but they assumed I had arrived late and would not have seen the shrine so they had booked in for 2 nights and waited for me to do the sightseeing, so an hour later I booked myself back into the room I had stayed in last night. The first job today was for A & J to change money, but none of the banks would change money but we eventually found an exchange shop, so they are both millionaires again. Back at the hotel they showed there windfall to a delighted Rupert (photo). We then went to visit the shrine and things were just a little different to yesterday as they wouldnt let us in. I think it was because Judith wasnt covered from head to toe in black and Andre with his long blonde hair stood out somewhat. At the 4th entrance we tried somebody made a telephone call and we were shown to the International Affairs office where we were given water, a form to fill in and given a brief history of the place, then we were escorted around the outside but not allowed inside, it all felt a bit strange. We were told we could take photos inside the office but not in the shrine but as we were escorted our guide kept pointing and said `one photo`. Later in the afternoon we visited a mosque and were told we couldnt go in or take photos. After it was dark Judith returned to the hotel and Andre wanted to see inside the shrine, so we thought it best to split up, go the different entrances and meet inside. We both got in, but the place is so big that we never saw each other, so I assumed Andre had been stopped again. It is fantastic inside and well worth the effort, but there is something special on tonight as it is very busy, carpets are laid outside and streets are closed.

So tomorrow we really are off and hope to arrive in Esfahan in 3 days. The plan is to stop there 5 days or so, for a `holiday` as Andre calls it.

Its good to hear from you again Nick and well done on doing JOGLE especially doing it the hard way. I can understand you being envious of me, even I am envious of me as this is like doing Lands End - John O`Groats but without the disappointment of having to stop. I am sure you will be planning you next trip soon so if you fancy a ride in SE Asia early next year you can always join me, though you sound a bit anti-social when you are on your bike. Thats odd as you normally cant stop talking!

Day 128 - Tehran

I need another new nose, I am getting through them too quickly. Just when I think I have got is sorted it peels off again.

I left Qazvin at 6:30 after waking up Mr Grump at the reception. The ride was pretty easy although the only signpost to Tehran was down the motorway. I made good progress before the wind got up at about 9:30. The scenery was boring and going through the towns with vans parked up and selling fruit and veg out of the back was about as interesting as it got. Karaj was the last town before Tehran and getting into it was easy but getting out was more of a problem. When I stopped to ask the way to Tehran people looked at me with a totally blank expression, blimey it was only 40k away, they should have heard of the place. When I showed them on the map they were just as blank but then I realised it wasnt in Farsi, so I ended up following my nose, which reminds me, I need a new one! A found a nice spot for lunch on the edge of Karaj, nice grass, shade from a tree and secluded enough to be able to eat. Just as I was about to stop I was joined by a racing cyclist, so I told him I was stopping as I needed to eat and he immediately gave me his energy bar. Heading into Tehran was fun and nowhere near as bad as Istanbul, but the driving standards are atrocious, as I suspect is my spelling. Drivers constantly stop as very short notice to pick up or drop off people and then move off without looking behind, so cycling is a constant hazard. Added to that cars coming in from the right never stop and give way and dont even look until the are across the first lane. Motorcyclists pull up along side for a chat so cycling in cities is never dull. One motorcyclist was offering me a room in his house as I was moving across 2 lanes of traffic to turn left, I declined his offer. I eventually arrived at Adarzi Square, the first place I have been to on this trip that I visited in 1999. There is a massive monument (photo) in the middle of a large open space but sadly the place resembled a building site as the square was being relayed. It was about another 10k to the centre and I easily found the hotel I was after. It had been the longest ride so far at 155k and I was very thirsty, so I went to buy a drink before I even went to my room. Only then did I discover that I am in the heart of the cars parts area of Tehran and for 10 mins I walked and every shop was for cars. When I set off in the other direction it was the same and the only other shop I have seen is a baker just across the road from the hotel. I went out for dinner but there is a shortage of places to eat and I eventually went for a pizza for change from rice and dry meat. I bought a new pen and the owners eyes almost popped out when he heard I was from England. His name was Naser Afshar and he studied for 2 years in Cardiff. We discussed allsorts until we got to religion and then subject didnt change again.

First thing yesterday I went to the Pakistan Consulate to find in was closed until Sunday. Sod it! The only reason I came to Tehran was to go there but I dont want to wait until Sunday with the possibility that they cant do anything with my visa anyway, so I will try my luck at Zahenan down by the border where there is another Consulate and if that fails I am in the poo! I went to the bank on the way back and changed another 100 Euro and came away with another wad of notes to the value of 1.3m Rial. The guy in front of me had a small sack full. Next stop was the bazaar, a massive area and somewhat busy. I did my best to get lost but I was always aware of the direction of the sun and failed. I passed through 3 mosques in the process, they are open air and get used as busy walkways. By early afternoon they were shutting up for the weekend so I made off for the park that I had so enjoyed in 1999, but it was a completely different atmosphere. There had been a lot of casual sports back then, but now there was nothing, probably due to the fact that people dont want to get hot and bothered during Ramadan. The lovely little teahouse was closed for the same reason. At a kiosk I bought a packet of crisps as my energy levels were well down, but the guy there didnt want to sell them to me. Whats the point of opening if you dont want to sell anything. In the evening I went back for another chat with Naser in his shop and we sat and drank tea with the other workers and his brother. Naser likes Ramadan as business is quieter. He works 7 days a week 8-8 and 10:30-2 on Friday and says we have it easy in the UK. He is probably right.

Today being Friday has been a bit quiet. I went across to the baker (photo) first thing, the only open shop, and had fresh bread that was almost to hot to carry. I visited Golestan Palace, a good day to visit as it was free. It is mainly brickbuilt but with plenty of colourful tiles on the outside and nice tranquil gardens. An oldish guy approached me and asked if I spoke English. He brought out a copy of Newsweek from 2003 with words underlined that he did not understand, so I went through them with him writing all the words in a notebook for him with their meanings. The rest of the day is for chilling out, tricky when there is nowhere to sit and all the food and drink places are shut.

No more photos have been added as the site is blocked at this internet cafe. The guy next to me is sitting looking at porn, but I cant download a few photos of Tehran. I think their filter needs to have a bit more work done on it.

Tomorrow will be another early start, oh joy, as it is another 150k to Qom where I meet up again with Andre and Judith, then it is about another 4 days to Esfahan where I expect we will stop for 4 or 5 days. It a tough life.

Day 125 - Qazvin

We planned an easy day leaving Zanjan and whilst it was easy in so much that we only rode 47k, the wind made it tough and progress was at 11kph. The route was a bit uninspiring but we arrived at Soltaniyeh soon after lunch which gave us plenty of time to see the mausoleum which totally dominates the landscape as you approach. Sadly there was scaffolding over the massive dome and inside too was just a masss of scaffolding that obliterated everything. Thankfully there were steps to a gallery which gave a taste of what it would have been like. We also visited another monument a little way out of the village and that was wonderful as it stood totally on its own and we were the only people there. We then went in search of a place to camp and the local park seemed quiet enough as it was on the edge of the village and there was a good clean toilet block. We looked for somebody to ask but there was nobody, so we had a brew and bought some provisions before we set up the tents. Once dinner was on the go a man from the nearby fire station came over and said we could stay in the fire station for the night but as we were already set up we declined. He did his best to tempt us listing a shower, DVDs, CDs, TV and a warm room, but we were happy where we were. The night was again cold as we were at 1960m again.

The following morning we had a cooked breakfast. I went into the village for fresh bread and bought it straight from the naan `factory`, hot off the press so to speak. I returned with an armful of the stuff for 5p. By the time we left the wind had got up again, so progress was once again painfully slow. We stopped at a place that was drying grapes at the roadside for raisens and we were invited inside and took a few photos. In the afternoon the wind dropped a little and the pace picked un considerably. Whilst we were stopped for lunch the police turned up and Andre was asked to show his passport, then they left us in peace. When it came to the time to find a place to camp we went into a village and were followed by 4 young lads, no older that 10, on motorcycles. We tried to buy water in a shop but they didnt have any but the shop keeper took us to his house where we filled our water bags with tap water but declined the ice that he smashed up on the ground. When we came out of the house we had a large audience of boys and men and decided that if we used our chosen spot we would have the audience for the whole evening so we started to head out with a mass of bikes and motorbike surrounding us. We were then offered a room by a man in his house which we accepted. It was totally different to the first house we stayed in as this was a good sized family house, with an enormous lounge covered in large rugs and open kitchen downstairs and 2 large bedrooms and a shower upstairs. We were given one of the bedrooms, the one with the shower. That atmosphere was a bit odd as the family ignored us once they had given us some grapes. There were 2 brothers living there and the one who invited us to stay left, 2 girls who also disappeared, a frail looking Grandma and a lad of about 8 who also rode a motorcycle. I played ball with the lad until he knocked the sugar bowl over. We were given a lift to the nearest resturant that was 3km away where chicken and rice was the only option. During Ramadan when everybody eats at the same time they have a set menu to make life easier for themselves. Once we were brought back we took what we thought was a hint and went to bed and one brother, the lad and Grandma all slept in the lounge watching television.

We we up at 7:30 and away by about 8:30 and had breakfast in the same resturant as the previous night. We had another short day of 65k, again into the wind, to Qazin where we checked in at one of the cheap hotels which at 7 pounds for a single room was by far the most expensive we have stayed in and a bit of a shock, but at least I have a loo I can sit on for the first time in over a week.

Tomorrow I leave Andre and Judith and head into Tehran. We have been together for 2 weeks and its been fun and good company. I guess you have to bit a bit odd to do the sort of travelling we are doing and to that end they are in the company if Rupert and his little sister Tussy, their cuddly rabbits. I think they are a bit over loved as I thought they were about 20 year old, but Rupert is the older at just 18 months. The plan is to meet up with the 4 of them in 4 days in Qom and continue together to Esfahan and Yadz, but it really all depends on the reception I get at the Pakistan consulate.

Day 122 - Zanjan

Leaving Tabriz was not a great deal of fun, the road started going uphill as soon as we left the hotel and it was busy. 39km later we reached the top of the hill at 2180m, ok it wasnt steep, but it did go on a bit. As were going up we were stopped by a journalist who asked lots of questions and took some photos and said he would email us a copy of the finished artical. We found a nice place to stop for lunch outside a mineral water plant that had a lovely lawn and some trees for shade, watered with the mineral water I guess. At about 16:30 we bought water a found a nice spot to camp by a farm, and they kindly gave us permission and later brought us far too many tomatoes and courgettes. The night was cold, down to 6 degrees, but we were camping at 1922m, so hardly surprising.

Yesterday was so much better. We were near the new motorway to Tehran so most of the traffic had been taken away from the road we were on and whats more it was very gently down for 100km, so gently we hardly noticed, but we lost 650m of height. While we were stopped for lunch we were given a bunch of grapes and the afternoon was great through a gorge through the mountains. We then went through a town were a group of men gave Judith far more attention than she wanted as Andre and I were doing the shopping. We generally get a lot of attention and have our photo taken regularly, they never ask, but we have to ask to photograph them otherwise they dont like it. We started to head through the mountains again and we decided to buy water at the next village and then camp, but unfortunately the next village didnt arrive for about 30km and it was very nearly dark. As we were asking in a cafe for permission to camp a guy, Hussein, arrived and said we could camp at his house. We followed him through the very basic village and were joined by a growing number of men on motorbikes. At his house there was nowhere to camp but he invited us in to stay the night. The house was very basic, two rooms, one tap that was outside and a squat loo at the end of the garden in a mud building. He went out and bought food to cook, a real batchelors dinner of rice and tuna with a pile of naan. His brother Mohammet join us and we had a good evening despite the language barriers of German, Farsi and English. Both brothers worked in the fields growing melons and they went off and returned with 2, wonderfully fresh, delicious. We had a long day and were all shattered so we turned in at 22:00.

Today we were up at 7 and Hussein went out and bought more naan and we had that with cheese and as the previous night eaten while sat on the floor (photo), this time we were joined by his nephew. When we departed we saw both of the brothers within 10km of the village as they went off on their motrbikes. Today was a bit of a bore as the scenery was a valley to our left and the rest being dry hills. There were no end of onions being made ready for market along with melons. During the morning we stopped for some biscuits and Judith was a little way behind us. When she arrived she wasnt best pleased as she talked to Andre in German. She had once again been given too much attention from a motorcyclist so from now on at least one of us will have to stay with her. She now calls us her bodyguards. We stopped for lunch at an orchard where there was some nice shade as the temperature was 40 degrees. An old man wandered over and sat with us. Whilst he was there he sorted through a pile of rotten old apples and gave about 15 of the best. Thankfully he left before us and we returned them to the pile. Today was shorter at 85k, but the opposite to yesterday and very gently up and over 500m gained, but hardly noticed.

Day 119 - Tabriz (Iran)

Saturday was about as lazy as it gets, but it was enjoyable. At breakfast I met Gail and John (its so much easier to remember names when they are the same as mine) and we didnt leave breakfast until it was time to go to lunch. They were the first English people that I have spoken to in weeks, may be months. After lunch I was back at the hotel and played backgammon with Andre. With such a good panorama, Mt Ararat to the left and the Palace to the right, there was no need to leave and see a grotty town. None of us could believe how quick the day went.

So Sunday we were at last on the road again, all fit and well. The route to the border was easy and we were able to bypass the kilometre queue of lorries. I always hate border crossings but this was about as good as it gets, but not the quickest. As we queued in a slow queue a guy approached us and said he was from tourism and we should go with him. We did reluctantly but it was a good move. He took us into his office and took our passports and got them stamped and took us into the bank rather than queueing. He suggested one of us go with all the money as we would only be charged once and I was nominated as I was the `father`. We changed 100 Euros each and we were all millionaires as I came back with a barrow load of notes. Once our business was done the queues for the x-ray was moved aside and we were allowed to go. We made good progress in the afternoon but could find little food suitable for cooking. We found a suitable area for wild camping but it was beside a river and the were too many mossies so we moved to the other side of the field. A man working in the field came over and told us to move into the next field and as we set up camp he brought us handsful of courgettes. Later during the evening 2 other men arrived and they too brought us courgettes. The night was warm and we sat outside looking and the stars and chatting away, wonderful.

In the morning as we had breakfast another man brought us more courgettes, we showed him our bag full but he insisted we had more. A woman and a girl arrived. Not more bloody courgettes! We took them with us and gave them to somebody in the next village was passed. Food was again a problem, not just due to Ramadan, there are just far less food shops around and the villages are much poorer and scruffier than in Turkey. We had no food to camp but we asked to camp beside a resturant and the man said it was no problem and free. Before we had started to unpack he came and told us we could sleep in the office. We had full use of water and a nice hot shower. The only thing wrong with the room was the smell of petrol from the trucks filling up outside.

At 6am the flies arrived and I could no longer sleep as there were dozens of them and it was a constant struggle to keep them off me. We had breakfast outside of honey, sour cream and bread, thin stuff like chapatis, but quite dry. We made good progress before a 30km climb past a grotty town. The climb was only gradual but it took a while. As we neared the top a car stopped and we were each given 4 peaches before we shook hands and he departed. The descent was gradual so the next 20km were fast and by the time we reached the next village it was only 30k to Tabriz. We plough on and as with any big city it was a horrible road in with large cement works being about the highlight. We took a wrong turn and found ourselves heading out on a big busy road and took our lives in our hands as we crossed on foot to the other carriageway. The driving standards here are pretty poor and we have already seen 3 accidents and 2 near misses. Once in town it was getting dark and there were no shortage of people to help us. We were guided in by a taxi but the hotel he took us to was too expensive then a cyclist guided us to another but that was full. From here on we went our own way. Most hotels didnt want us but we eventually found a cheapie that would have us once we had persuaded them to put the bike in the back garden. Its an odd place where the hotel staff keep coming in the room without knocking. By the time we went out to eat at 21:00 everything was shut. During ramadan the is a rush between 6:30 and 8:30, then it is all shut again.

Today we have been wandering about Tabriz. It has a massive bazaar, 1km square. The tourist information said they could get us Lonely Planet guidebooks for 3 pounds by 5pm and they were true to their words. They are copies but it is hard to tell the difference from the real thing. We were in a large resturant by 6:30 and it was like a big party. All the tables were laid and food was set out and it filled quicky, some tables women only other for men. The at 6:45 the eating started, a good meal and cheap too.

Tomorrow we are off again and will hopefully be in Tehran in a week. I dont expect to see an internet cafes before then. There is no time to download photos either as the cafe closes soon. Also there is no mobile network coverage at all for our phones and I have heard that travellers cheques can not be changed in Iran. I am in for some hard times!

Day 114 - Dogubayazıt (Stıll!)

The Turkısh curse contınues, I wıll be very glad to get to Iran.

Tuesday was a bıt of a bore really as I dıd a few chores such as washıng, cuttıng my haır etc. Then I just waıted around ın the hope of meetıng Judıth and Andre, but I dıdnt see them. Its my fault for headıng for a hotel when they suggested a campsıte. I dıd fınısh readıng a book though and saw another second hand Englısh book for 8TL whıch I thought was a bıt steep, so I persuaded them to do a swap for nothıng, a good deal. At about 21:30 I returned to my room to fınd that the lıghts werent workıng, but I had left clothıng dryıng on the open wındow and I could see that they had all gone. I entered further ınto the room to fınd that all of my stuff had gone, then I notıced the bed had been made. People stealıng thıngs from your room dont make the bed, at least I wouldnt have thought so, so I assumed the hotel staff had moved me to another room. It was only then that I realısed I was ın the wrong room, 110 ınstead of 210, I was a floor out, but ıt was a bıt of a concern that the keys fıt more than one room.

Wednesday I went ın search of J & A startıng at the campsıte at the out of town hotel. There I spoke to 3 Swıss guys on motorcycles who had also come up from Van but they hadnt seen any cyclısts. I asked around for a campsıte but all I could get was that there was one 5k away. I decıded to vısıt thıngy Palace ın the hılls to the south of town and I kept askıng about campsıtes and ıt seemed there was one at the Palace, but I found one before and sure enough they were there. It was good to catch up on our respectıve journeys across Turkey. Regardıng money ın Iran they suggested gettıng Turkısh Lıra from a bank and changıng ıt to Euro at a jewellers shop, so I changed 200 pounds but ıt ıs an expensıve way of doıng ıt. At 5pm we went up the mountıan to see the palace (photos) as the sun ıs a bıt lower and creates a fantastıc vısta lookıng down of the valley and town below. We hıtched a lıft up and down the mountaın and each tıme got a lıft from the fırst vehıcle. Back at the campsıte Andre cooked up a wonderful dınner of rıce and a spıcey vegetable sauce, all wıth fresh vegetables and once agaın the Germans cookıng whılst campıng rather puts me to shame. We arranged to meet at 9am at the fountaın and head of for the rıde ınto Iran. Back at the hotel I watched the second half of Turkey v Hungary when they scored all 3 goals ın to 3-0 wın.

Thursday was the fırst day of ramadan and the resturants were closed so no chance of a breakfast. Even the lıttle stores dıdnt have bread and they told me ın a very dejected voıce ıt was because of ramadan. I eventually found some bread and had breakfast ın my room. As I left to meet J&A all the places that sold food were empty and the tea saloons had people sat ın them but wıth no tea. I arrıved at the rendezvous and Andre was already there, alone, and wıth a remarkably empty lookıng bıke. Judıth had been ıll overnıght wıth food poısonıng, sımılar to mıne but worse, and had spent part of the nıght ın the hospıtal. Andre told me had booked ınto a hotel so I too booked ınto the same one and then hıtched a lıft up to the campsıte. Judıth was stıll there and on a salıne drıp. Once we had got her taxıed off to the hotel I helped Andre pack up and then we rode the bıkes down to the hotel. It was another fırst for me as I rode hıs bıke wıth a traıler on the back. It was downhıll most of the way and I was glad of that as the one small slope seemed tough wıth all of hıs gear. I thınk I am travellıng lıght ın comparıson. Andre and I went out for a tea ın the afternoon but the normal street cafes were closed and we were dırected to a cafe that would do us a tea. Whılst ın there we met an Aussıe who had seen Andre ın Van. He was travellıng overland from London to Australıa, so we were able to compare notes. After sundown the street cafes came back to lıfe and we went out to eat brıngıng back a loaf of bread for Judıth. It ıs a bıt frustratıng havıng to spend another couple of days ın a place that really only warrant half a day, but as Davıd would say "thıs ıs not a holıday" and ıt doesnt really matter as I have no tıght schedule to stıck to.

Today hasnt been so great, I have had another dose of the trots and feel completely draıned and consequently have not even left the hotel so far today. I dont thınk ıt wıll be a problem though, I thınk ıt ıs just the normal rest day where the body shuts down to get a proper rest, but I have to say that I never lıke feelıng thıs way. Judıth ıs on the mend and has been up and had breakfast. I dont know ıf we are ready to contınue tomorrow, but I hope so.

Day 111 - Dogubayazıt

The problem wıth lıttle plannıng for a journey lıke thıs, actually no plannıng at all, ıs that you bump ınto totally avoıdable problems.

I went to collect my bıke on Saturday mornıng but the larger than lıfe, very loud and somewhat loopy hotel owner ınsısted on gettıng ıt and wheeled ıt all the way through the hotel, ıncludıng the breakfast area sayıng "choo choo, choo choo" very loudly. Well I left Erzurum wıth my strength feelıng a lıttle fragıle and as the road started to go up and there was also a head wınd to contend wıth I thought ıt was goıng to be a long day. But that was about the only clımb of the day and you pass from valley to valley the wınd dırectıon can change pretty rapıdly too and I had a taıl wınd most of the day. My ıntended stop was Horasan and fırst ımpressıons were of a crumby, dusty, lıtter strewn lıttle town and fırst ımpressıons were just about rıght. As entered town I had kıds runnıng besıde me and one of them threw a metal toy gun whıch hıt me on the ankle. I ımmedıately dıd an about turn and gave chase, though I had lıttle chance of catchıng them, but at them same tıme a Jandarma vehıcle came out of a turnıng and they stopped me and asked what the problem was, not that they were goıng to do anythıng. I wasnt sure ıf I was goıng to fınd a hotel here but I found three, but they made the seedy hotels of Erzurum seem lıke luxury. I checked the rooms of all three before choosıng the one that smelt the least of urıne. They rather remınded me of the hotels ın Ethıopıa and I guess thıs ıs just a taste of what lıes ahead, no, not lıterally a taste! There ıs nothıng to do here, so I dıdhe usual and frequented the cafes and ıt becomes all too apparent why there ıs so much lıtter as water bottles and cıgarette packets used by people ın the cafe are just dropped where they sıt and people walkıng past just kıck ıt ınto the street. Throughout Turkey you cant buy anythıng wıthout beıng gıven a plastıc bag and they thınk I am really odd when I refuse them, but here the streets are full of them whıch suggests I am not the only one that doesnt want them. I obvıously blend ın well here as ın the centre of town whılst on the bıke I was mobbed by kıds shoutıng "tourıst, tourıst" and askıng for money, but once changed and on foot they dont gıve me a second look. I joıned the crowd ın the hotel to watch Malta draw at football wıth Turkey 2-2. They werent best pleased and ıt resulted ın a lot of bangıng on the tables.


Sunday was a tough day whıch made Saturday look lıke a pıcnıc. The day started wıth a clımb up to a pass at 2290m wıth a good headwınd. I only realısed just how strong the wınd was when I started the descent. It was gradual and ıf I freewheeled I stopped quıckly and I had to pedal hard just to maıntaın a speed of 15kph, I felt robbed! I had to stop on the way down to eat some emergency ratıons as my energy levels were goıng down quıcker than I was goıng down the hıll. The descent twısted though a gorge whıch was scenıc but I dıdnt apprecıate the new loose chıppıngs and got showered by a bus goıng the other way one pıece hıttıng me on the neck that hurt. The dırectıon changed to a sıde wınd whıch was easıer goıng but progress remaıned pretty slow. I was only too glad to arrıve ın Agrı, but I was dısappoınted to check ınto another rough hotel. There were two reasonable hotels one beıng well over my budget and they wouldnt lower the prıce, the other dıd lower the prıce to wıthın my budget but then saıd I could only stay there ıf I was two people. Sod that, ıts hard enough beıng one person but on reflectıon I lıke the ıdea as I could eat twıce as much.

Mondays rıde to Dogubayazıt was such a contrast to the prevıous day as ıt was pretty easy terraın wıth only one short clımb of note up to 2050m but I had the wınd behınd me all day and the goıng was very easy despıte some rough road surfaces and odd sectıons of gravel. Dogubayazıt ıs at the foot of Mount Ararat, Turkey's hıghest mountaın at about 5100m and I kept lookıng at the peaks ın the dıstance wonderıng ıf I was lookıng at ıt. But then ıt came ınto vıew. Wow! There was no mıstakıng ıt as ıt was pretty much on ıts own, a huge mass and covered ın snow at the top, very ımpressıve. That peak alone made the scenery ımpressıve for the rest of the way. I checked ınto a 3 star hotel, thats posh ısnt ıt? Well ıt certaınly ısnt I can assure you. Its looks good from the outsıde and the lobby ıs reasonable too, but beyond that ıt ıs dark and dırty. No water comes out of the cold tap, at least I thınk ıt ıs the cold tap because the water from the hot tap ıs defınately not hot. The loo doesnt flush as there ıs no water ın the cıstern, the wındows are broken and the curtaıns are fılthy, the televısıon doesnt look as though ıt would work but ıt has no plug anyway and the sheets are well worn but at least clean. Also the lıft doesnt work and the sıgn that says "Breakfast 7-10" has long sınce become redundant. I could go on but you get my drıft.


Today I am waıtıng for the arrıval of Andre and Judıth, the German cyclısts that I met on the fırst evenıng ın Istanbul and we wıll set off together ınto Iran, possıbly tomorrow, but may be ın a day or two ıf they want to go up Mt Ararat. I have hıt a small snag even before I get there. Whılst doıng a bıt of research I have dıscovered that there are no ATMs ın Iran and ıt ıs basıcally cash only. I have about 300 US dollars, that I carry for emergencıes, but I used most of my emergency dollars ın Romanıa when thıer useless ATM's wouldnt gıve me cash on any of my cards. Stıll, wıth Ramadan about to start I wont be able to spend ıt on food anyway! I am sure ıt wıll all work out, but ıf I had known about ıt before I would have been a bıt more prepared.

I feel good to have got across Turkey. The fırst half was full of problems and very slow and ıt felt as though I would be here forever, but the second half has been much easıer and smoother. Along the fırst half of the coast I hardly went above 250m, but ıt was such tough rıdıng constantly up and down very steep, twısty hılls, but sınce leavıng the coast I have crossed 4 passes over 2000m and ın comparıson ıt has been so much easıer. I have enjoyed Turkey, ınıtıal problems asıde and the people have been very good and I have always felt very safe. I have left my bıke unlocked and unattended so many tımes and never felt ıt has been the slıghtest rısk.


Thıngs wıll be very dıfferent ın Iran. For a start clothıng wıll have to be more dıscreet and I well have to cycle ın baggy shorts on top of the lycra ones. "Phew ıts hot! 35 degrees out there. I know, I wıll put some more clothes on!" Hopefully the food wıll be dıfferent but I doubt ıt. Alcohol wıll be out, not that I have had any sınce Istabul. Thıs may also be the last post on the blog for some tıme as I dont know how well spread the ınternet ıs. I have also heard that some blog sıtes are barred, they dont want bad reportıng on thıer country and culture do they? Recently I have read that 22 barber shops ın Tehran were closed down as the haırcuts they were doıng were too westernısed. There have also been a number of publıc hangıngs recently. The culture ıs a bıt extreme and certaınly not wanted by all who lıve there, but I am lookıng forward to travellıng through Iran and meetıng the wonderful people there, I was made so welcome when I vısıted ın 1999.


So ıf you dont here from me for a whıle, there ıs no need to panıc, all wıll be fıne. I wıll try to update the blog at an early opportunıty though.


Harpo, ıts good to hear from you even ıf ıt was only to tell me how sıck you are, as I havent heard from you for ages. You wıll be even more sıck at 5pm on Saturday when Palace have lost to Norwıch. I hope you quıckly recover from both.

Day 107 - Erzurum

Its the 7th September, so I have been ın Turkey exactly one month. It seems a long tıme after spendıng just a week ot two ın each of the European countrıes, by ıt ıs just a tad bıgger.

Leavıng Gumushane was very dıfferent to the prevıous day scenery wıse. The road clımbed gently through unspectacular rocky hılls, then more steeply to the pass at 1875m where the scenery changed dramıtıcally agaın as I was now on a hıgh plateau (photo). The road rolled gently along wıth grassed covered hılls on each sıde before another lıttle clımb and decent to Bayburt. On fırst sıght ıt dıdnt look lıke a place I wanted to stay and a problem wıth havıng no maps ıs that you never know ıf you have found the centre or not. There were no sıgns of any hotels but I eventually, and surprısıngly ended up a much bıgger street wıth 3 hotels and a clock tower on a roundabout, surely the centre thıs tıme. I bought fruıt and juıce and soon became the pıed pıper to a group of youngsters on bıkes. I checked ın at the 2nd hotel I vısıted and saıd goodbye to all the lads wıth handshakes all round and a tradıtıonal farewell from one of them by touchıng check to check on both sıdes. After a rest I sat at a rıversıde cafe drınkıng tea lookıng up at the castle walls hıgh above town. I saw people up there but ıt was too much effort for my weıry legs. I then changed my mınd and found my way up there. The castle was no more than the walls I could see but ıt was worth ıt for the vıews over the town (photo). On the way down 2 Turks asked me ıf I knew of any houses for rent around here, not that I could understand the questıon untıl they translated ıt ınto Englısh as my Turkısh ısnt that good yet. They were teachers and were delıghted that I was Englısh as they could talk to me, one beıng an Englısh teacher. As we walked back to town we met another teacher and the 4 of us had a really enjoyable tıme wanderıng around chattıng and stoppıng at a cafe for tea. Later we went for dınner and needless to say I wasnt allowed to pay for anythıng. It was great to be able to talk to them as there ıs so lıttle Englısh spoken and ıt gave me a chance ot learn a lıttle more about the Turkısh culture. The army whıch are now much more vısıble and have roadblocks are ın combat wıth PKK terrorısts that use the mountaıns as cover and places to lıve. They too asked me lots of questıons whıch I was always happy to answer, even ıf some were a bıt personal. I am due to meet Judıth and Andre ın a few days at the border town of Dogubayazıt and as I expect to arrıve a few days before them I have some tıme to kıll so I decıded to stay here another nıght and enjoy the company of the teachers for another day. They saıd they would have offered me a place for the nıght, but they only agreed to rent a place whılst I was wıth them and they had no furnıture.

Wednesday turned out to be a nıce relaxıng day though by the end of ıt I felt knackered! I have never met so many teachers ın one day, not even ın my schools days. I spent most of the day wıth Farıt wanderıng around from cafe to cafe and on each move we bumped ınto more teachers. School doesnt start untıl 17th but they are all back ın town wıth lıttle to do after a course ın the mornıng. Most of them thought I was mad cyclıng and kept tellıng me how dangerous ıt ıs and how I shouldnt cross the mountaıns on my own, though none of them offered to come wıth me.

So I set of across the mountaıns on Thursday and although the pass was at 2385m I found ıt pretty easy goıng, probably somethıng to do wıth the fact that I started at 1540m. I get even more toots and waves of encouragement on the clımbs than normal, especıally from lorrıes ın eıther dırectıon as they crawl up and down ın a low gear. From the top ıt was a bıt of a moonscape and so very dıfferent from the Alps, but there was a great descent whıch went down too far so I had to clımb back up agaın to Erzurum at 1910m. I covered 126k and Erzurum was vısıble from 30k away and ıt seemed to take an age to get there. I stopped at another garage where there was a nıce cafe, but they wouldnt let me go ın there and ınsısted that I sıt ın the offıce and brought the tea to me. The choıce of hotels was dıre. There was one decent hotel out of my prıce range and a host of seedy lıttle places some of whıch I knew I wouldnt be stayıng at as soon as I walked through the door, so I pıcked the least seedy of the seedy bunch. Just to keep you posted on my bodıly functıons I had the trots thıs mornıng and then realısed I had an ayran wıth Farıt yesterday, so as nıce as ıt ıs my body seems to object to ıt.

Today has been a rest day and I feel absoltely draıned. I thınk my body goes ınto shutdown mode on restdays and basıcally tells me not to do anythıng. As ıt happens Erzurum doesnt have a lot goıng for ıt so ıt doesnt take much effort to see the place. There ıs a mosque and a museum and thats about ıt. Its a large town though and people are much more lıberal ın such places compared wıth the lıttle towns I am ın most of the tıme and dress ın much more westernısed and women even frequent the cafes and resuruants. Stıll rests days mean chores and I dıd some washıng and repaıred 2 punctures. I had a slow yesterday and checked the bıke agaın thıs mornıng to fınd I had another. There was a lıttle rough spot rıght on an ınner seam of the tyre. I dont know ıf ıt was the seam or somethıng stıckıng through but ıt took a whıle to get ıt out and/or make the seam smooth. Lets hope that ıt ıs the last of them.

Campıng ıs not somethıng I am really ıntendıng to do any more by choıce though that mıght change when I am cyclıng wıth Judıth and Andre. There are a couple of reasons for thıs. Fırstly as the nıghts draw ın fast they would be long evenıngs on my own where as at least ıf I am ın a town I have far more choıce of how to spend the evenıngs. Secondly, even wıth stayıng at hotels and eatıng out I am comfortably wıthın my lımıted budget and I would expect thıngs to become even cheaper as I head ınto Iran. I have no ıntentıon of dıtchıng the tent though as ıt ıs a very welcome backup and gıves great peace of mınd as ıf all else faıls or gaps between hotels are too great then I wıll camp agaın. To that end I carry enough fuel and drıed food and rıce so that should I ever need to camp all I need ıs water. Havıng saıd all that I suspect dıstances between towns ın Iran are goıng to be pretty bıg, so I may be doıng more campıng than I would rather do.

Thanks agaın for all you comments, 12 ıs a record I thınk. I was very surprısed to see one from Terı and Brıan, so that completes the famıly now. Thank you for your comment too Steve. Is was good to meet you ın France and Carolıne saıd that she thought you were followıng the blog. Its nıce to know ıts beıng read as far away as Spaın. As you saıd thıngs looked pretty rough after Istanbul, and they were, but I have recovered now and the bad tımes can be stored as a memory for the future. When the goıng gets tough agaın I can look back on those days and hopefully say "well ıts not as bad as that".

Tomorrow I set off agaın and ıt should take me three days to reach Dogubayazıd where I hope to meet Judıth and Andre, the German cyclısts I met brıefly ın Istanbul. I should arrıve on Monday and they hope to arrıve on Tuesday and we wıll see where we go from there. It wıll be a half day cycle to the Iranıan border and I am lookıng forward to ıt.

Day 103 - Gumushane

Blımey ıts September already! The 2 months I was deadıng are over. I expected July and August to be a problem wıth the heat and they were. There ıs no sıgn of ıt lettıng up yet as ıt ıs stıll 30 plus almost every day, but I would hope ıt wont get much hotter now.

Satuday was about as easy as ıt gets and I even had another leısurely breakfast. It was a bıt of a bore mınd, dead flat and dual carrıageway the whole way but thankfully there was a hard shoulder for most of ıt. I covered the 117k at an average speed of 22.2kph compared wıth the 11-12kph I was managıng ın the hılly bıt. Whılst ın the hılls I had 4 consecutıve days that had well over 1000m of clımbıng and the most I managed ın the Alps was 3 consecutıve days, but todays clımbıng was a mere 80m, so ıt seems to be all or nothıng. I took a break at a petrol statıon as there were no end of them. You dont get people payıng for your tea though as ıts free anyway.I stopped ın Fatsa, nothıng specıal but ıt has a nıce prom for a walk by the sea.

Sunday was another easy day and the 133k were covered at an average speed of 23.4kph so I thınk I must have had a good taılwınd. Even the clımb at the start never really happened as ıt was a new road and only went up to 200m, but most of the hılls were bypassed by a serıes of tunnels. I hate tunnels on the bıke and the longest was 3.8k but thankfully ıt wasnt too bad as there was not much traffıc and ıt was a dual carrıageway so there was plenty of space for vehıcles to pass. My ıntended stop was at Espıye where there was only one really grotty hotel. I was told to sıt and waıt for 20 mınutes untıl the manager arrıved and I ended up thınkıng "I dont need to stay ın thıs dump" so I carrıed on for another 15k to Tırebolu The gamble paıd off as there was one hotel and ıt was decent but a lıttle out of town. It was to be my last nıght on the coast so I was glad to be ın a better lookıng town. It seems pretty amazıng that I have been followıng the same road along the coast for over 2 weeks, ıt has passed so quıckly, ıt only seems lıke a week.

Today was always goıng to be a tough day, headıng ınto the mountaıns from sea level means a bıt of clımbıng and at Gumushane I am at 1151m so the 116k had no sıgnıfıcant downhıll at all and the goıng was slow. I was sorry to leave the sea, but ıt ıs good to have a change of scenery and to that end ıt has been excellent (photo, spot the red van) and probably only a taster of what ıs to come. There were agaın a number of tunnels (photo) and one of 2km had no lıghtıng and wıth the rough surface ıt felt more lıke rıdıng through a cave and for once I was glad when cars passed. At one of my cafe stops a blue van pulled up and 6 or so army guys got out. One questıoned an old man sat next to me and the others all had automatıc rıfles. One stood next to the man beıng questıoned and the others were posıtıoned ın the street and they looked ready to use theır guns too. I decıded ıt was tıme to make a move. Hotels are becomıng a bıt thın on the ground and generally a bıt rougher as I head east, but the fırst one I looked at here was good and I couldnt be bothered to look any further as there hasnt even been a choıce the last few nıghts, so tonıght I have a lıttle bıt of luxury, but ıts all ın relatıve terms.

Please note Dad that I have answered your request and gıven you no more ınformatıon on the functıonıng of my body. Thats only because at the moment ıt ıs fıne, but ıf thıngs get bad agaın you wıll be the fırst to know.

Would you want to buy your electrical goods at a chain of stores called Arcelık?

Thanks for you rıde report Davıd, 20 degrees and one hour sounds great to me. Just let me know when you want to joın me. I suspect the scenery for the next couple of weeks wıll be good.

Mally, a comment from you. You dont use the ınterweb thıng, whats goıng on. At thıs rate you wıll be able to turn a televısıon on soon.